In an unusual turn, we actually made it to the base of a good first route, … within 1/2 hour of leaving the car (note the wonderment and confusion here on Luke's face as we try and find the climbers trail). We met a couple of other hospitable local climbers who helped direct us. Portent, 3 star 5.6, was our first and it went very well. We'll have to go back again and get the 2nd and 3rd pitches. At about 2:45 I started up Ordeal, a 3 star 5.8 which is reportedly one of the best in the park. I was really struggling at the 3rd bolt anchor and was not feeling confident on my gear placements in the sketchy rock.
Over the weekend Chris was gone to DC to party with MJ for her 40th. When she's gone, I pick up my stinky food habits. So, I indulged in a lunch of smoked oysters and double cream brie on a baguette. That didn’t put me in good strength for the climb ... go figure. So, I left my first bail out carabiner and gave up the climb. Then, to my surprise, it started to sprinkle. I was really glad I wasn’t getting rained on 10 feet from the last bolt on that pitch! What a messy situation that would have been. This was my first outdoor trip with Luke and we had a great time. He’s a super conversation partner and was very patient with me while I was struggling up on my toughest sport lead on Wet Kiss. On the way down and back we had remarkable conversations about ecology, marriage, our vocations, and love of the outdoors.
Luke has some amazing stories of climbing in his home area in Oregon and of amazing trips to Denali. We discovered that might even be able to partner together in the ongoing battle with our own consumerist urges at the local outdoor store.
